From Rose to Perfume: Olentium’s Rose Saudade Unveiled

Few would disagree that fragrance has the sublime power to transport us through time and evoke emotions. It is in this spirit of recollection and reminiscence that we released an eau de parfum that is part of man’s millennia-long (and more) love affair with the alluring scent of roses.  Olentium’s creation “Rose Saudade“, which launched in the autumn of 2023, has an apt name, as we’ll explain soon.

More than just a blend of notes with rose to the fore, Rose Saudade is a fragrant, nostalgic elegy to the days of summer past. It charts the journey of rose to perfume, from the flower in full bloom to its autumn withered remains. As we delve into the story of Rose Saudade, we’ll explore the rich history of rose in perfumery, from its early distillation by the Arabs in the Middle Ages to its contemporary presence in some 20th century perfume greats.

The Rose’s Journey Through Time

The journey of the rose in perfumery is a tale that spans centuries, echoing through history as one of the oldest distilled ingredients. In the early Middle Ages, the Arabs, particularly the renowned polymath Ibn Sina (Avicenna, as he was known in the West), employed an alembic system to distill the essence of roses. First alembic extraction of the essence of rose was probably of Rosa x Damascena or Damask Rose. This marked the beginning of an enduring love affair between herbalists and later perfumers and the delicate, yet robust fragrance of the rose.

Fast forward to the 20th century, where iconic rose-centric perfumes captivated the olfactory senses of perfume enthusiasts worldwide. Names like Chanel No. 5 and Joy by Jean Patou became synonymous with the sophistication and sensual draw of the rose.

The 21st century has also seen iconic rose perfumes emerge with ‘Portrait of a Lady‘ created by Dominique Ropion for the Collection Frederic Malle one of the most exciting, distinct and famed roses of modern times. Accompanying what the brand calls an oriental rose come notes of patchouli, raspberry and a liberal use of spices. The perfume is sensual, robust, alluring and a modern classic; so much so that enthusiasts refer to it by the acronym POAL.

While including rose damask, Olentium Rose Saudade is altogether different, showing just how many ways damask rose can be interpreted. One thing for sure though, Rose Saudade embraces the timelessness of the rose.

Rose Saudade: A Fragrant Journey into Nostalgia

Named with the Portuguese word “saudade,” which encapsulates an ache and yearning for something lost, Rose Saudade is more than a scent – it’s an emotional journey from a summer to autumn rose. The perfume captures our wistful longing for summer roses as they become a fading memory in the the lingering gentle warmth of the autumn sun.

At the heart of Rose Saudade’s intricate blend are Rose de Mai – Rosa centifolia, the most loved of all by perfumers for its delicate, exquisite profile. Then come soft, powdery whispers of violet and a hint of deeper, richer damask rose, and the subtle warmth of sandalwood and amber. Our aim in this composition is to take the wearer on a nostalgic journey, allowing you to carry the memories of bygone summers with you, even as the seasons change.

Rose Saudade is a Leitmotiv for the passing of time, of our lives and our propensity to indulge in nostalgia. All perfumes are about creating new memories and clasping onto those long past. After all, each natural note in a fragrance once was the lifeblood of a living plant – now no longer.

Rose Saudade: the Notes

Rose Saudade’s olfactory passage of time unfolds with Italian citrus top notes that are gentler than you find in Boschetto or Olentium Le Parfum. Here, the citrus is a fleeting prelude to the perfume’s heart where enveloping, lightly-powdery rose and floral notes interplay. The fragrance then settles into a soft, musky woody base, leaving a lingering trail that whispers of distant memories.

Harvesting Today’s Roses: Grasse and Beyond

Today, the harvesting of roses is a meticulous process that takes place in various regions globally, each known for specific genera of roses. Grasse, often referred to as the perfume capital of the world, is renowned for growing the most favoured rose, Rosa centifolia, also known as Rose de Mai.

Bulgaria is celebrated for its Rosa damascena, commonly known as damask rose. These roses, among others, are highly prized in the perfumery industry for their unique and complex fragrance profiles. Both feature in Rose Saudade, with an extra boost of damascena provided by the inclusion of its hydrosol.

Rose and its Sustainability

As the demand for rose in perfumery persists, sustainable sourcing becomes imperative. Perfumers must carefully select their suppliers to ensure ethical practices and preserve the delicate ecosystems where roses thrive. The process of distilling rose oil is labour intensive, requiring a substantial amount of rose petals. For instance, it takes approximately 2,000 to 4,000 kilograms of rose petals to produce just one kilogram of rose oil. This scarcity contributes to the high cost of premium rose oils, with prices reaching thousands of dollars per kilogram.

It may be hard to fathom that fields of beautiful roses could present the wrong environment for the ecosystem, but beyond their beauty lie many less than eco-friendly issues. Roses are picked dawn for perfumery, while the rose petal scent is at it’s most powerful. This leaves few open flowers that day for insects and pollinators to feed on.

However, the giants in perfumery are not unaware of their need to manage their vital flower crops sustainably for planet and people. Lancôme is one such firm that is working towards better land management to ensure nature is not deprived in the growing of the cosmetic giant’s rose crops. Biotech and the creation of nature-identical scent molecules are helping mitigate the need to land-hungry perfumery crops like rose. The future is biotech bright even if nature’s rose will always be coveted in fine fragrance.

Our Commitment to Sustainability in our Fragrances

We take the steps we can to source from suppliers that are transparent about the origins of their ingredients. In Rose Saudade, we also include sandalwood, which is an endangered tree and one that can provoke quite nasty tree-turf wars in certain parts of the world. We use sustainably-farmed and harvested Australian sandalwood, but are mindful that Indian sandalwood has its place in supporting local communities. When we don’t know the provenance of our ingredients, we opt for synthetic alternatives.

In Rose Saudade, we use a rose hydrosol that is a byproduct upcycled from the rose essential oil distillation process. Perfumes include between 3-5% of water usually in order to reduce the harshness of the alcohol. In place of distilled pure water, the damask rose hydrosol we use is one small way in which we not only reduce waste, but also add a unique layer to Rose Saudade. The use of rose hydrosol in place of traditional water enhances the fragrance’s connection to the rose, making it a truly sustainable and alluring olfactory experience.

From Rose to Perfume, a Never-ending Story

Rose Saudade stands out as a testament to our enduring love affair with the rose in perfumery. From the historical distillation methods of the Arabs to contemporary interpretations, the rose blends tradition and innovation like no other ingredient. As you embrace Rose Saudade, you’re not just wearing a perfume; you’re carrying a piece of history, a whiff of nostalgia, and the timeless beauty of the rose – from its origin to what we hope will be an enduring creation honouring the incredible beauty rose provides us in its afterlife.