Cologne couture: 6 reasons to love classic men’s colognes
Classic men’s colognes, with their citrusy, herbal and woody allure, have transcended time to become enduring symbols of elegance and freshness in the world of perfumery, denoting the well-groomed man. Now, they are finding new aficionados in Genz Z and among all genders. They are no longer a male preserve – don’t we all associate James Bond with classic mid-century colognes? Today, the timeless cologne is borrowed, begged or bought by teens to twenty-something women too.
Originating in the early 18th century, the cologne’s legacy continues to captivate our contemporary sensibilities. Here, we explore our long love affair with colognes, unraveling the reasons behind their universal charm, and check out a choice top 5 classic men’s colognes exploring their timeless appeal.
The Cologne Legacy: Then as Now
The roots of traditional men’s colognes dive deep into the annals of perfumery history. Italian-born Johann Maria Farina founded a company in the early 1700s in Cologne, Germany, selling typical fine wares from Italy such as lace, silks, feathers, hats and tobacco. But it is his creation of a scented toilet water that marked the genesis of his fame and that of the cologne.
Farina’s eau de cologne was inspired by the scents of Mediterranean citrus groves. This groundbreaking concoction, aptly named “Eau de Cologne,” became a favorite at royal courts and among the elite, solidifying the fragrance’s reputation for sophistication. The company still exists and is run by the 8th generation of the family today. It makes a truly fascinating read.
In the 19th century, the House of Guerlain contributed to the cologne legacy with creations like “Eau de Cologne Impériale,” commissioned by Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie. These historical fragrances embodied the epitome of refinement.
Historic Cologne Notes: citrus, herbs and notable extras
Typical historic colognes were crafted with a select palette of ingredients. Citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, mandarin and neroli dominated, providing a fresh and invigorating top layer. Lavender, rosemary and thyme added herbal complexity to anchor the volatile citrus, while base notes often included vetiver, cedar, musk and other animalics for depth and longevity. The result was a harmonious composition that epitomised timeless elegance. In reality, the cologne today has a similar profile, as we’ll now see.
Contemporary Cologne Notes: dare we add florals?
Modern colognes have evolved while preserving the core of their historical counterparts. Contemporary compositions often feature a blend of citrus top notes, floral accents like jasmine and rose as well as more exotic florals ylang, magnolia, osmanthus, lotus flower and algaia, and a nuanced base of woods, vetiver, and musk. Top notes also feature spices like ginger, pepper, and saffron, while base notes include ouds, synthetic alternatives or ethically-sourced animal notes, like hyraceum, along with leather. Actually, leather notes are also among the oldest in perfumery and have an interesting history. See our posts:
Perfume’s love of leather: a history
Leather perfume notes and 7 leather fragrances
Perfumers leverage advancements in fragrance technology to access a diverse range of natural and synthetic ingredients to create colognes that pay homage to tradition while meeting the our contemporary expectations. Today’s olfactory palate needs to surprise us, not just embrace the classics.
Fast forward to today, and our resurgent interest in traditional men’s colognes – now as liberally worn by all genders – is down to their ability to evoke a sense of sophistication. Traditional means tried and tested and not part our modern consumer society. We probably all cherish memories of a grandfather or other male figure in our past whose one favoured cologne was part of their very being; their signature scent for life. We doubt they ever had more than one cologne in their grooming routine.
Our enduring love affair with the classic cologne may be our way of kicking back against the aspects of modern society we dislike; our way of recreating a comforting, if nostalgic and never actual, sense of security that we draw from thinking of past times.
Six Reasons We All Love Classic Men’s Colognes
1. Genderless Elegance: classic cologne cool
In the Zeitgeist of modern society, traditional men’s colognes have become emblematic of genderless elegance. The era of sharing toiletries and reducing the clutter of his and hers fragrances has ushered in a new appreciation for scents that transcend traditional boundaries. Colognes, with their versatile and subtle profiles, effortlessly complement any gender, making them a must-have in the fragrance collections of individuals and couples alike.
2. Classically Refreshing Colognes: a bright start to the day
The love for traditional men’s colognes stems from the invigorating experience they provide. The citrus-herb notes of colognes add a revitalising touch ideal as an essential part of our morning ritual. As we embark on our day, the enlivening burst of fragrance after a perfect shower sets the tone for a dynamic and energised working day.
3. Office-Friendly Cologne Elegance: keeping scent simple
In the era of heightened awareness of allergens and the need for considerate fragrance choices, classic men’s colognes are a top choice as office-friendly fragrances. With their subtle sillage and inoffensive, naturalistic nature, colognes please the wearer, but won’t offend co-workers as they integrate into shared spaces without overwhelming the olfactory senses. It’s our duty today as perfume wearers to realise we need to do no harm to others, planet included, and not only reduce the synthetic burden on our skin, but also that of the environment both inside at the office and in the big outdoors.
4. Natural Essence: cologne as expression of nature
The natural essence of colognes adds another layer to their enduring charm. Today, perfumers can craft colognes with all-natural ingredients, harking back to the roots of this fragrant tradition. With the use of a wider natural palette available today, including materials like natural isolates, the all-natural perfumer can not only recall and celebrate historical colognes, but also outperform them in longevity and depth.
5. Well-Groomed Aura: classic cologne appeal
Colognes play a pivotal role in creating the impression of us as well-groomed individuals. The initial burst of fresh citrus – extending our daily shower cleanliness – evolves into a musky, woodsy drydown, to leave that classic cologne hallmark of well-groomed, but not self-centred, sophistication. Regardless of our gender, a splash of cologne gives us the zing and air of self confidence as well as a connection with traditions, classic looks and our modern desire for less is more; colognes are not showy fragrances.
6. Musky Allure of the Drydown: day-to-night cologne charm
As colognes evolve through to their drydown phase, we meet warming, lingering base notes such as amber, woods, vanilla, and musk (perhaps also deep smoky and leather notes such as oud, vetiver, tobacco and labdanum). Though these scents become subtle skin fragrances, they come into their own in close encounters. The musky allure of the drydown creates an intimate and alluring impression, leaving a lasting memory in the minds of those who experience it up close and personal.
Top 5 Best-Selling Classic Colognes
Our chosen top 5 best men’s colognes hark back to the best colognes of the mid-20th century. These five continue to capture the hearts and senses of a diverse audience, from teens to those who wore them in their teens when they first appeared. These classic colognes attest to the enduring allure of cologne couture.
Guerlain Vetiver (1959)
Guerlain’s Vetiver has stood the test of time since its 1959 release. With a sophisticated blend of citrus, vetiver, and tobacco, it exudes a timeless, earthy allure. Its enduring popularity lies in its ability to seamlessly transition from day to night, making it a staple in many fragrance collections.
Acqua di Parma Colonia (1916)
This Italian classic, born in 1916, boasts a fresh composition of citrus, lavender, and rosemary. Acqua di Parma Colonia’s enduring charm lies in its simplicity and versatility, making it a favorite for those who appreciate a refined, understated fragrance.
Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955)
Chanel Pour Monsieur, introduced in 1955, is a classic that epitomizes the brand’s elegance. With a blend of citrus, spices, and woody notes, it exudes sophistication and remains a symbol of refined masculinity.
Dior Eau Sauvage (1966)
Launched in 1966, Dior Eau Sauvage is an iconic fragrance featuring citrus, vetiver, and a touch of floral notes. Its timeless appeal lies in its ability to balance freshness with a subtle sensuality, making it a go-to choice for those who appreciate classic elegance.
Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte (1979)
Hermès’ Eau d’Orange Verte, introduced simply as Eau de cologne Hermès before being renamed in 1997, is a citrus masterpiece featuring notes of orange, lemon, and mandarin with mint and treemoss accompaniments. Its vibrant and invigorating aroma has made it a timeless choice, perfect for those who seek a burst of freshness throughout the day.
Colognes in conclusion
So, why do we all love traditional men’s colognes? Because in their essence, they encapsulate the very spirit of enduring elegance and timeless appeal, and those aspects of fragrance never go out of fashion.
Olentium Boschetto Cologne Intense, is a contemporary colonia designed for everyone. Vetiver forward, this 95% natural citrus classic has a sweet, resinous, lingering drydown. Boschetto Cologne Intense arrives in April 2024. Be first to hear of its launch, and get subscriber offers.
All five chosen have citrus, which is not a big variety. I used to love the Hermes orange but grew out of it. There is nothing dark, nighttime, mysterious about citrus, it’s very Summer, Miami, Mediterranean, and disco aside from refreshing. I love colognes with spice or lavender to add a soft alluring mystery for work or a date. Black Polo was a big hit with men, always asking it smelled so rich and manly.
Wish you had chosen other classics. It is 2024, classics can be in the 90s, 34 years ago. ;)
My least favorite cologne is Aqua di Gio because it smells cheap.
I totally agree, there is very little nighttime and mysterious about a cologne with, and retaining only, a blast of citrus. I chose to focus on the historic meaning of cologne from its origins centuries ago, to Italian barbershop style to mid-century cologne classics and therefore chose the 5 all-time, top-selling – and still selling – colognes to demo this. Eau Sauvage, 1966, is in vogue as ever, no doubt thanks to its face, Johnny Depp and diehards who loved their father and grandfathers wearing it. But you will no doubt find YouTube reviewers like Jeremy Fragrance out there with more recent offerings.
Historically, colognes would start with a heavy dose of citrus, to give the morning-fresh well groomed man effect. However, even starting with citrus, most colognes do something heavier, more longer lasting in the mid to base, so can be equally nighttime depending on how they evolve. Interesting you mention Black Polo as many folks do think it citrussy and fresh – see Fragrantica reviews – though in the official note list, citrus is not the categorised as its dominant feature.
I can quite understand that Aqua di Gio (1996) is now smelling cheap; unfortunately so many of these designer colognes have been reformulated and watered down – as is the case if you compare a vintage Guerlain Vetiver with today’s offering. I would recommend searching for niche fragrance houses for that really special, non-citrussy cologne. One house to look for is Beaufort, a British niche house. I would start with Fathom V, and all their EDP (note, they are not defined as colognes) would be more mysterious and brooding for nighttime. Our own Olentium cologne Boschetto has a tonne of vetiver in it (like Guerlain’s vintage) and lavender, citrus, and spice with ceder, ambroxan, tonka and patchouli in the base.
Lavender, which you mention, ironically, is one of the most classic/ancient notes in perfumery. It can be both a piercing top note along with citrus, and a more lingering mid-base, if the perfumer uses the absolute, not the essential oil for the latter effect. Some people think of lavender as old-school and powdery, but it is still prevalent in today’s newer colognes – and features in Eau Sauvage.
Do try some niche offerings if you want surprising. Sadly most designer names these days are par for the course, and loaded with cheap fillers like Iso E and Dihydromyrcenol (of 80s-90’s fame) for cost reasons.