• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter
info@olentium.com | +356 79048338
  • 0Shopping Cart
  • Home
  • Shop
    • Fragrance
    • Spa Skincare
  • About
    • About us
    • Eco-luxe ethos
    • FAQs
  • Journal
  • Contact
  • Menu Menu

How To Enjoy & Sample Botanical Perfumes

Buy & Wear Perfume
buy botanical perfumes

You might be wondering why I’d write on how to sample botanical perfumes when surely our approach to smelling and testing all perfumes, whether synthetic, part synthetic or botanical, would be the same. I am not talking about how to hold the perfume testing blotter nor about its ideal size, shape and paper weight; and nor am I going to say even a brief word on how to actually sniff test perfume the ‘proper way’, which is not on your wrist along with a dozen other tester spritzes as you hastily walk through duty free.

Here, I will take you through some of the components that go in to botanical perfumes that do indeed make how to test and buy them that bit different from sampling largely synthetic fragrances.

Let’s take a look at some of the facets you need to keep in mind when learning how to sample botanical perfumes

Linear vs complex fragrances

Botanical perfumes are complex numbers not perhaps because they can rival the sheer number of molecules and synthetic fragrance blends that go into some mainstream scents, but because the very plants they derive from are as diverse and complex as nature can get. Even if I buy the same, let’s say, rose absolute from one year to the next from the same supplier, the scent will never be the same.

Naturals are created with a level of uncertainty; they are at the behest and vagaries of terroir, to use a wine-making term, as well as individual harvests, seasons and climates. That’s just the start of the wonderful world that you enter into when you sample botanical perfumes.

In these days of hurried airport testing or even blind, online fragrance buying, no large fragrance house wishes to disappoint its customers by offering scents that vary over time as can natural botanical perfumes. It also can’t afford to rely on natural botanical materials because of the tonnage of perfumes they create and sell. Market demands and consumer expectations come into force and unreliable supplies would prove a nightmare to large commercial fragrance companies which distribute millions of bottles worldwide under prestigious brand names.

Consistency and predictability are their watch words and while some do include a portion of naturals and try to keep proprietary control over their production as Chanel does with its own Grasse farms supplying its botanical materials, they rely on synthetic molecules as the mainstay, if not the accent notes, in their perfume formulae.

Only synthetics can give the level of assurance that a perfume will be the same this year as next, IFRA allergen restrictions and any obvious reformulations to ignored. Conversely, if you sample the same botanical perfume over several years, it will almost definitely not smell the same.

This is why many artisan, botanical perfumers run limited editions to avoid the issue of not finding the same raw materials twice. We indie brands don’t of course have the purchasing clout to buy in bulk nor store tonnes of material either. Also because we like to indulge our creativity by moving on, we have more freedom when operating leaner in harmony with nature’s provision of raw materials. We can dabble in choosing more expensive natural perfumery materials than many of our counterparts in mainstream fragrance development who are writing formulae based on the accounting departments budgets. Synthetic molecules aren’t necessarily cheaper I hasten to add. But price is another story I chat about here.
[bctt tweet=”Natural #botanicalperfumes are complex personalities that can change each batch like wine vintages. See my tips on how to know and sample them. #indieperfume #naturalperfumes ” username=”@olentium”]

Take your time

A fragrance dominated by synthetic molecules can be complex and contain up to around 200 different molecules and blends. However, the way a synthetic of today develops over time from first spritz to dry down may be, somewhat surprisingly given the number of molecules, linear even in comparison even to synthetic forerunners of the mid 20th century.

So, if you are testing a largely synthetic fragrance it may well take a path from opening notes to dry down that is not only consistent (heat, climate and skin biome aside) but one that offers up more facets of all the so-called tiers of notes – top, heart and base – throughout its life cycle. It may have a less overt peel off of molecules as time lapses. Many are designed with markets in mind so the mantra is that the fragrance is required to let consumers know what they are getting from that very first test spray.

Not all take this approach, as anyone testing Andy Tauer‘s complex fragrances will know. Interestingly, Andy also decided to buck the trend by creating his Pentachord range of fragrances built on just five accords, and devised with pared back simplicity for synthetics. He also says that even synthetics can have variances as each batch may have a different level of impurities. Tauer, as a self-taught niche and indie perfumer probably hasn’t the materials’ buying power of large fragrance firms, so in some senses he operates more along the lines of the natural independent perfumer and will therefore have slight variances from one batch to another.

But, do be aware that the development of a natural botanical perfume will take incredible twists and turns that only time can offer up. The first impression is usually very, very different from the dry down a few hours later. These are not perfumes to decide on with an impulse buy.

The natural perfumer will of course have aimed to control any leaps in the perfume’s development (unless creatively desired) so as to smooth and round it out. However, you will for the most part discover that naturals need to be tested on several occasions to be fully understood and appreciated. They do not offer up the beauty of their complexity and may not be love at first spray.

My advice then is not to rush into a decision about a natural perfume. Luckily, I’ve found most natural perfumeries sell sample vials of around 2ml, so you can try before you buy. This is something I will be offering with Parfums Clandestins in a discovery set of the four Sicily Quartet EDP.

A Word About Notes in Sampling Botanical Perfume

Firstly, don’t believe all the marketing copy. As there is no legal obligation (as yet in the EU, but perhaps on the cards) to force perfumery brands, whether those producing natural botanical or synthetics, to detail each ingredient in a fragrance, you as a consumer rely on the more prosaic descriptions.

Be aware of these key things:

Even we in the botanicals business, may list only those notes that make sense to the consumer. So, while Bergamot and orris are intelligible, perhaps benzyl acetate, which can be a natural isolate and therefore compatible with natural perfumery – might sound very chemical and less transparent.

Few consumers would understand benzyl acetate as a jasmine or ylang ylang scent nor know it can be natural even if not strictly occurring in nature in that form. Processing does take place to arrive at a natural isolate. I personally will be listing each ingredient, INCI nomenclature and common name format for my perfumes.

Second, just because a note is listed doesn’t mean you can identify it in the perfume. Perfumers may use just trace amounts of particular raw materials to create an effect but not to be present in and of themselves. This is part of the magic and art of the perfumer and comes with their experience in the trade. Again, it’s more common to list those that you are more likely to detect so as to indicate more explicitly what kind of fragrance to expect.

Lastly, note that the natural perfumer has to work to some restrictions, which most of us however see as benefits and challenges to enjoy fathoming our way around. For example, it can be difficult to achieve a lasting citrus note as these are the more volatile notes and would require some synthetic molecule artifice to ‘fix’ them in a perfume and make them last longer.

Similarly, it can be challenging to achieve a light, white, crisp effect using botanical materials only. Many natural perfumes are criticised for being base note heavy. They needn’t be, unless desired, and under the nose of a skilled natural perfumer you will find light floral and even marine notes that dance to a tune similar to those we’re used to in synthetics. However, in general be aware that designing with botanicals does means working with a very different palette.

Let’s round up the advice on enjoying and sampling botanical perfumes.

  • Be aware that naturals will have an ever-evolving dry down on your skin.
  • They need more time than most synthetics to be understood and appreciated.
  • Don’t impulse buy nor expect to know them from first test spray.
  • Realise that sparkling, light crisp top notes aren’t easy to achieve in naturals…
  • So don’t compare the first spray and impression of a natural perfume to the effect you’d get from a more synthetic blend fragrance
  • Botanical perfumes, even if the same brand and blend, will vary from batch to batch, year to year.
  • Try before you buy and seek out sample vials from artisan botanical perfumes.

 

1 November 2018
https://olentium.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/sustainable-perfume.jpg 1041 1600 Liz Grech https://olentium.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/logo-olentium.svg Liz Grech2018-11-01 09:40:012022-03-13 17:46:57How To Enjoy & Sample Botanical Perfumes
You might also like
Guide to perfume strengthsThe complete guide to perfume strengths
Mood of Olentium Le ParfumPerfume Mood – Olentium Le Parfum
is perfume sustainableHow Sustainable is Your Natural Perfume?
How to read a perfume ingredients labelPerfume Ingredients: How to Read a Flacon Label
marine notes in perfumeScents of Summer: Marine Notes in Natural Perfume
expensive natural perfumesWhy Natural Perfumes Are Expensive
how to wear botanical perfume - 6 tips6 Tips on Wearing Botanical Perfumes
How to choose your wedding perfumeHow to choose your wedding perfume

Recent Posts

  • Mediterranean Sea Salt in Spa Skincare
  • The Benefits of Botanical Oils in Skincare
  • Borage Seed Oil Benefits in Skincare
  • Natural vs Sustainable Perfumes – which are better?
  • Citrus notes in fragrances

Categories

  • Buy & Wear Perfume
  • Fashion
  • Natural Skincare
  • Perfume Industry
  • Perfume Notes
  • Perfume Resources
  • Perfumes
  • Travel & Perfume

@Olentium

Green is the new black! Olentium Le Parfum swaps i Green is the new black! Olentium Le Parfum swaps its black label for green to mark the arrival of its sibling for spring. 
Green Label Le Parfum is the alcohol-free version of our signature fragrance. It comes as a light, dry sprayable oil that's kind on the skin, long lasting and packs some scent strength. 
I am so excited to share news of green label as it can ship worldwide without restrictions. Hello Australia and NZ, finally!  It will soon be on the site with a nice launch offer.
Soulful Saturday.... Just moodboarding some inspo Soulful Saturday....
Just moodboarding some inspo for packaging our new perfume 'Suede'. Sand the perfect neutral hue to suggest the softness and soul of this floral-leather perfume for spring. Suede EDP arrives soon.
Spring is definitely in the air in the Mediterrane Spring is definitely in the air in the Mediterranean. 
With jasmine sambac already budding up in my courtyard, Olentium's thoughts turn to white florals. Never far from fashion in perfumery, white floral notes are a mainstay of fragrance with every perfume house at some time making forays into their narcotic voluptousness. 
Another Olentium perfume will debut this spring - a heady hitter with four of the great white florals - jasmine sambac, tuberose, jasmine grandiflorum and gardenia.
Our blog post via bio link celebrates white notes and some of the classic fragrances to find them in.
Suede, our new fragrance for spring 23. A soft lea Suede, our new fragrance for spring 23. A soft leather-floral scent that leaves the impression of a caress.
Perfume profile: saffron, berries, blush peony, rose, suede, musk, tobacco, leather. 
95% natural origin composition. 
Don't miss its launch later this spring. Sign up via bio link for news and 10% off your first purchase.
Olentium Ritual & Restore Face Oil - doing what it Olentium Ritual & Restore Face Oil - doing what it says on the bottle, and does best: that home spa luxe feeling in drops of golden goodness for skin.
Can you guess our first spa line product arriving Can you guess our first spa line product arriving this spring? Hint: it's for a whole body and mind refresh and rewind. A shower ritual that takes you places.
Our Latin name Olentium loosely means ‘of scent, odor or smell’ and we look to ancient Mediterranean perfuming, bathing and anointing rituals for inspiration.
Using Olentium body cleanser is to enjoy a sense of Mediterranean wellness wherever you live.
A top down on our new Ritual & Restore Face Oil th A top down on our new Ritual & Restore Face Oil that is arriving in March. A formula with 12 Mediterranean-inspired botanical oils that are fast absorbing and leave the skin with a satin feel. Nourishing and matte, so ideal for both day or night use. 
Enriched with antioxidant vitamins E and C, aloe extracts and olive-derived squalane, this oil has a lot going on in every drop. A little goes a long way.
The sea that surrounds us on the home island base The sea that surrounds us on the home island base is our inspiration and a source too of our ingredients.
But, it has been a wild February in the central Mediterranean; one of the wettest February months on record so far. And the island is storm battered and bruised. A lesson in never taking nature for granted and to respect it. The sea most certainly is a lifelong teacher.

Olentium’s perfumes and skincare are designed for self indulgence, sensuality and self-care. We create niche fragrances and luxurious, spa-style botanical bodycare from our base on a Mediterranean island

QUICK LINKS

  • Home
  • About
  • SHOP
  • SHIPPING & RETURNS
  • Contact

Join us for 10% off your first order.
Be first to hear about our luxury spa skincare launching spring ’23.

Thanks for subscribing to our newsletter!

Copyright ©2020-23 Olentium · info@olentium.com
Terms & Conditions · Privacy Policy · Disclaimer
VAT: MT1366-5908 · Phone: +356 79048338 · 14, SGW 1541, Malta (EU)

Perfect Notes for Autumn PerfumesBest notes in autumn perfumesChanel No 5 limited editionChanel No.5 vs Gabrielle: perfume review
Scroll to top
Manage Cookie Consent
We use cookies to optimise our website and our service.
Functional Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
Manage options Manage services Manage vendors Read more about these purposes
View preferences
{title} {title} {title}